Registration and ownership documents: If you are looking to purchase a road racing bike that started life as a road based sports bike ask to see the registration document and check it against the serial numbers on the frame and engine. If the document doesn't support the serial numbers or the serial numbers have been altered in any way the bike may contain some stolen components you will not be able to get the bike through scrutineering (i.e. you won't be able to race it).

If the bike is being sold with a spare engine(s) or frame(s), ask for those documents as well.

Race-kit and trick parts: If the bike is being sold as a machine with a winning record, ensure the seller hasn't swapped the trick parts (i.e. modified brakes, suspension, engine mods, exhaust) for standard equipment. Have a good look at the bike and if you can't tell the difference bring along someone who can.

Spares: Race bikes consume parts. Ask to see what spares are included in the purchase.

Handy things to have are: spare wheels and tyres (one set for dry tyres one set for wets), clutch and brake levers, throttle and clutch cables, clip-on bars, footpegs, sidecovers, sprockets, clutch plates carburetor jets, steering dampeners, bodywork... Ask if there are any special tools required to work on the bike and if they are included in the deal.

Condition: Check for signs that the bike has been properly cared for and is well presented. A gungie race bike, with missing or stripped bolts, and resin filler in the engine casings indicates it has not been properly maintained, and should be avoided. Shop around to find something in good condition.

Engine: Find out who has tuned the engine and if it has been rebuilt find out how many times (ask to see receipts). Ask how many racing hours are on the engine since its last rebuild.

Frame: Check for crash damage. Look for any hairline cracks around all frame welds. Is the frame straight? Check the alignment of the front and rear tyre alignment with a plank of wood or a straight edge.

If you are buying a classic race bike, check for rot or rusting.

Suspension: Front forks: Check that the forks are not bent (a nice smooth sliding action with no snagging), that their surface is smooth and unpitted, and oil the seals are not leaking. Lift the front of the bike up so the front wheel is off the ground (i.e. put a crate under the engine) and check there is not excessive play in the headstock.

Rear Shocks: Ensure the rear shock is in good condition, does not sag and rebounds swiftly after compression.

Clutch: Look at how the clutch is set up. If the adjustment is fully wound out - there may not be much life in it. Ask the seller if there are any spare clutches and cables or if any special tools (like a clutch tool) come with the sale.

Test ride: We have found that the best way to check a vehicle out is during the test ride. Here are just a few things to check during the test:

Ease of starting: make sure the engine is cold before you try and start the bike so you can listen for any rattles, knocks or anything out of the ordinary indicating main bearing or big end problems. Once the engine is warm ensure the it can idle freely and doesn't stall when dropping from higher rpm's

Ensure the clutch engages well and is not slipping under hard acceleration

Ensure the engine pulls HARD when it comes into its powerband. Its worthwhile to do a compression test on each cylinder if you have a gauge.

Ask a friend to look for excessive exhaust smoke when you ride by.

Ride through as much of the gearbox as you can. Ensure the gear box is in good working condition, doesn't have false neutrals, or slips out of gear under power.

Check the front brakes are grabbing well and are not pulsating (indicating warped disks). Check the forks aren't saggy or diving excessively under braking. Also ensure the bike doesn't pull to one side under heavy braking (indicating bent forks, frame, or uneven brake setup).