Engines don't come much simpler than an air-cooled two stroke single, so even we should be able to get this thing back together. Rather than go in to exact detail (buy a manual you cheapskate) we've just run through the basics so you can see what is involved and the problems we had.

We already have a Clymer manual for the bike and now we can look at all the pictures and forget to read the text which states that if you rotate the kickstart to the left it will work and if you don't it won't - hey it only took us two hours to figure out...

	OK, so here is the starting point, a couple of empty crankcases. Now we have cleaned these and painted them. We have removed the main bearings and so the first thing to do is refit some new bearings.
	Start by putting the new bearing in the freezer for a few hours and then heat the cases.
	Now the bearing can be gently tapped into the cases - DO NOT HIT THE INSIDE BEARING RACE - this will knacker the bearing, drive the outer race only (we use the old bearing that was removed or a socket if we have a big enough one). Make sure that the bearing is seated properly (in this case a bolt on plate holds it on the other side of the case).
	Having installed the bearing you then need to fit the oil seal. Make sure that you fit it the right way round (i.e. to stop oil getting in or out). This varies on suzuki's as they changed there mind on which side the oil seal should be - CHECK THE MANUAL - in this picture the bearing is running in the gearbox oil on this side of the crank and the oil seal is facing the crank
	Having fitted the bearings the next thing to go in are the gears. Start by fitting the two main gearshafts into the case...
	The two gearshafts must mesh properly - this is critical - no bodging allowed. The two shafts should spin reasonably freely in the neutral position, once fitted the next item to go in is the shifter drum...
	This is the shifter drum - basically the shifter forks run along the tracks in the drum and are moved horizontally to change the gears - clever! Not so clever is the way Suzuki have implemented the shifting mechanism. The gear on the end of the drum is rotated by the gear lever, but a fiddly little spring assembly has to be inserted...
	This looks simple enough doesn't it - but this caused us the most problems of the whole rebuild - do this procedure in a sealed area if possible I spent at least two hours just looking for the springs as they ping out with remarkable regularity
	Basically the two little bits of metal fit into the gear and are spring loaded, the whole assembly is then fed into the end of the shifter drum - sounds easy, but it isn't. Note that the grove in the bit of metal must align with the smooth side of the gear - now try to squeeze the lugs together and press into the retaining area on the end of the drum - PING - F*@£ - search for three hours..
	Oh, did I forget to mention that this needs to feed through the crankcase and be held by some retaining plates. It is easier to remove the plates, although these were difficult to get off (use an impact driver)
	And voila - this is what it should look like - I'm sure that it is easier to do if you are not a cack handed idiot - the problem is that you lose your rag after the springs have pinged out for the fifth time and hence you lose all ability to reason and think
	Having fitted the shifter drum, you can now relax and fit the selector forks, these run in the tracks of the shifter drum and you will of course have noted which fork goes in which groove when you dismantled the gearbox.
	To fit them simply remove the bar and fit the fork into the appropriate gear and the pin into the appropriate track then insert the bar into the holes to hold the forks in place. You may need to rotate the shift drum to get everything to line up but this is easy - there are three shifter forks in total (see completed gearbox later).
	Now having installed the majority of the gearbox you need to slot in the kickstarter - easy if you know how
	Start by making sure that the dot on the kickstart gear is aligned with the mark on the shaft (as shown). Next feed the shaft through the cases and fit the spring.
	This is what you'll end up with - be careful here as we got it wrong a couple of times - check the manual.
	And, if all is going well the gearbox should look like this, now you can fit the crank...
	We had our crank rebuilt and fitting it will be eased by chilling it in the freezer for a few hours. The crank is a tight fit and you will not be able to simply push it into the bearings - for Christ's sake don't try hammering it into the bearing - this is precision aligned and whacking the end will throw it out of alignment.
	Special tools are available to press the crankcase halves together, but you can overcome this by simply applying even pressure to the crankcases - we used extra long bolts to bring the halves together. Tighten the bolts evenly around the crank as it needs to be true to go in easily - and don't forget to fit the gasket between the two halves (yes we have done it before)!
	Having closed the crankcases together you can now fit all the external bits like the clutch, flywheel, piston etc - all pretty straightforward. Here you can see our shiny new wiseco piston - with helpful arrows to tell us which way to fit the piston (yes we have put it in the wrong way before)!.
	Next we fitted the cylinder with it's new reed valve assembly - make sure that the piston's rings are seated properly and bob is your uncle. Connect up the carb and pour petrol in the tank - uh, better check that all the nuts and bolts are torqued up to the required level and then we can start the thing - amazingly it fired first kick, now that is luck...