As we are experienced coachbuilders with an appreciation for the curves that are inherent within any sheet of metal...ok, so we once made an ashtray in metal work, but at least we're willing to have a go...

As with the interior panels, the basic procedure is fit the panel roughly, clamp it in place, clamp everything else that relates to the panel and then once lined up you can start drilling and fixing

	The rear panel is possibly the most complicated to fit as wraps around three sides of the car and needs to be central and relate to the rear wings and sides of the car. From the video you'll see that the procedure for fitting is not simple...
	Achieveing a tidy fit is not too difficult for a single panel, the real problem is getting all the panels to match up
	you will need plenty of these. Positioning each panel takes time and patience and clamping them firmly in place definately helps
	Be prepared to drill holes, lots of them. Possibly the king of the holes is the interior of the rear wing (shown left) and this is possibly one of the most critical panels to get right - when fixed it lightly with clamps and then fitted the wheels to try to get the arc of the wing correct, but given that the suspensions height hasn't been fixed this is still guess work
	The rear wing works out as the fibreglass edging with the sheet wrapped around and fixed at each end, not easy to get exactly right
	And here is one we made earlier
	Fitting the side panels is not straightforward as the sides are not straight, but flare slightly towards the back of the car at the bottom and the curve has to match up with the bottom line of the rear wing/mudguard
	Get used to this, you'll be drilling and tapping for England once you've built your 2B
	Hmmm, wonder how VW get such neat panel gaps - this is a bit more Morgan than BMW, but hey, where did I leave that filler...

	The bonnet comes in two pieces and needs to be fixed together as follows
	First, get the two halve lined up and clamp them togther - remember that the critical line is actually on the top side of the bonner, so make sure that you heck it before...
	Drilling through the two halves and fixing with small nuts and bolts
	To finish off the two halves you apply glue to back (wider) edge and then slide on the strange folded over peice of metal that you've been wondering about since you picked up the kit.
	Now the two halves of the bonnet are firmly together you can relax and prepare yoorself for the nightmare that is fixing the nosecone...
	Now, after much trial and error, we still can't tell you how to fix the nosecone. The basic idea is to drill and tap with screws, then rivet in a nice tight pattern. The reality is that when you first match the two halves together you will find huge gaps on the corners and the method suggested in the video doesn't work easily. The idea is to work alternately away from the middle, one screw left, one right etc until you have worked your way neatly all the way to the edge on each side.
	The reality is that the thibng quickly goes pear shaped as one sides pulls in the other out, if we'd kept going on the left we'd never have got the right to fit.
	Note that we also fitted a strip underneath the cone for the screws to bite in to - and believe me they do need to bite to pull the two parts together

Fibreglass, it really is the material of the future, I wonder why they don't make Bond Bugs anymore....